November 25, 2007

Ok...I now officially have experience with high-density (25psi) blue foam. Over Thanksgiving Laroldo and I gathered materials and launched on our crusade.

I bought some 2'x4' sections of 1/4" MDF and had them cut into 2'x2' squares.

Larry went to Allied Building Materials and purchased some 2'x8'x1" blue foam sheets.

Once we assembled the materials, Two Stooges Manufacturing took over. We clamped the foam between two sheets of the MDF squares and lined up the edges. We then used the MDF as a guide to cut the foam. Any roughness we sanded out.

Simple in practice...but apparently not simple enough!

When we applied the glue and clamped the foam to the MDF (for 30 min as per instructions) we noticed that the foam tended to pull away in the center. We tried different methods of applying glue (brush, spreader) and different methods of securing the foam (tape, clamps, weights).

Our final method was:

• Spread the glue thickly with a brush
• Tape it
• Clamp it
• After approx. 30 min. remove the clamps and put the boards under weight overnight.

The result was passable. I will say this...the 1/4" MDF glues to the 1" foam makes a very solid piece.

There were two..."oddities"

• The foam appears to have shrunk by maybe 1/16" to 1/8" along the cut edge. An astute person will note that it was probably a mistake in cutting, normally I would agree, However since we used the 2'x2' MDF sections themselves for cutting templates I can't imagine what it could be.

• Using 100 grit sandpaper the foam sanded up nice and smooth...except when it didn't. For some reason a couple of the cut edges began to peel in small sections rather than sand to a smooth finish. Very odd.

The lesson for next time is to cut a little bigger than the template and do a final cut after the MDF and foam have been glued.

Tim, they call him...

November 20, 2007

Terrain Boards

It has been decided that we need some purpose built terrain boards. Why? you ask..

Good question? I am not really sure, perhaps the spectacle has become more important...

For my part I put it down to my usual simple motives:

"Oh look a bunny..."

Here is the (my) plan...

MDF comes in 2' x 4' sheets I am going to buy four of them...

"Wait...that equals a 8' x 4' table, you only need a 6' x 4' for FOW..."

Yeah, yeah...save the heckling for later

I intend to cut them into 2' x 2' sections (8) to build:

• 2 x ridge sections
• 2 x hill sections
• 4 x clear sections

I am going to use high-density blue foam to create the terrain features. My only question at this point is whether to use the MDF as the base or glue the foam to the MDF. The latter means I can do wadi's and the like, but the former is easier and lighter.

Decisions, decisions...

Tim, distracted they call him...

Today is.......today.....

5. leichte Division

After Some research I have come up with an actual TO&E for the 5. le. Division in Afrika (1941)

Everything below I have verified with at least two sources. I left out the non-combat units (signals, sanitation, etc).

5. leichte Afrika-Division (TO&E) in Tripoli Mar-1941

Panzerregiment 5

2x gr.Pz.Bef
1x kl.Pz.Bef
1x Pz.III
2x Pz.II

le.Panzer Zug
3x Pz.II
5x Pz.I

le.Panzer Zug
1x Pz.II
4x Pz.I

I.Panzerabteilung - Stabs-kompanie

1x gr.Pz.Bef
1x kl.Pz.Bef
2x Pz.III
1x Pz.I

le.Panzer Zug
5x Pz.II

le.Panzer Zug
1x Pz.II
4x Pz.I

1. le.Kompanie (le.Panzerkompanie)
17x Pz.III
5x Pz.II

2. le.Kompanie (le.Panzerkompanie)
16x Pz.III
5x Pz.II

4. m.Kompanie (m.Panzerkompanie)
10x Pz.IV
3x Pz.III
2x Pz.II

II.Panzerabteilung - Stabs-kompanie

1x gr.Pz.Bef
1x kl.Pz.Bef
2x Pz.III

le.Panzer Zug
5x Pz.II

le.Panzer Zug
1x Pz.II
7x Pz.I

5. le.Kompanie (le.Panzerkompanie)
16x Pz.III
5x Pz.II

6. le.Kompanie (le.Panzerkompanie)
16x Pz.III
5x Pz.II

8. m.Kompanie (m.Panzerkompanie)
10x Pz.IV
3x Pz.III
2x Pz.II

Regiments-Stab z.b.V. 200
MG Bataillon 2 (mot)

Stabs-Kompanie
10x m.SPW (Sd.Kfz. 251)

1. Kompanie
2. Kompanie
3. Kompanie
4. s.Kompanie
5. Pi.Kompanie
6. Pi.Kompanie

MG Bataillon 8 (mot)

Stabs-Kompanie
10x m.SPW (Sd.Kfz. 251)

1. Kompanie
2. Kompanie
3. Kompanie
4. Pz.Jg.Kompanie
5. s.Kompanie
Pi. Zug

Aufklärungsabteilung 3 (mot)

Stab u. Nacht. Zug
Pz.Sp.Wg. Schwadron

6x s.Pz.Sp.Wg.
18x le.Pz.Sp.Wg.

Krad-Schtz. Schwadron
s.Schwadron

Panzerjägerabteilung 39 (mot)

1. Kompanie
8x 3.7cm PaK36
3x 5cm PaK38

2. Kompanie
8x 3.7cm PaK36
3x 5cm PaK38

3. Kompanie
8x 3.7cm PaK36
3x 5cm PaK38

Panzerjägerabteilung 605 (Sfl.)

Stab u. Nacht. Zug
1x Pz.I

1. Kompanie
1x Pz.I
9x Pz.Jg.I

2. Kompanie
1x Pz.I
9x Pz.Jg.I

3. Kompanie
1x Pz.I
9x Pz.Jg.I

Artillerieregiment 75 (mot)
I.Abteilung

1. Batterie
4x 10cm le.FH

2. Batterie
4x 10cm le.FH

3. Batterie
4x 10cm le.FH

Flak-MG-Battaillon 606 (Sfl)

1. Kompanie
12x 2cm Flak Sfl.

2. Kompanie

12x 2cm Flak Sfl.

Flakregiment 33 (mot)

I.Abteilung
1. Batterie
4x 8.8cm FlaK36

2. Batterie
4x 8.8cm FlaK36

3. Batterie
4x 8.8cm FlaK36

4. Batterie
8x 2cm Flak

5. Batterie
8x 2cm Flak

Now I will try to reconcile some of the narrative accounts I have with unit organizations to come up with a 'snapshot' of the 5. le.Div. accurate enough for gaming.

Tim, obsessed they call him...

5. leichte Division (mot) (Entry for October 25, 2007]

Ok, here is my list for now...very tentative, but it will work to get me going and painting.


5. leichte Div. Aufkläkrungs Schwadron [EW]

1 Company HQ [√ ]
1 HQ Section [√ ]
2 Panzerknacker [√ ]
2 SdKfz 250/1 s [√ ]


1 Aufklärungs Platoon
1 HQ Section [√ ]
1 Panzerknacker [√ ]
1 SdKfz 250/10 ( 3.7cm tank gun)[√ ]
3 Panzergrenadier Squad [√ ]
6 SdKfz 250/1 [Have 3, 3 on order]

1 Aufklärungs Platoon
1 HQ Section [√ ]
1 Panzerknacker [√ ]
1 Kfz 15 [√ ]
3 Panzergrenadier Squad [√ ]
6 Kubelwagen [√ ]

1 Armoured Car Patrol
2 SdKfz 231 [√ ]

1 Armoured Car Patrol
2 SdKfz 231 [√ ]

1 Armoured Car Patrol
2 SdKfz 231 [√ ]

1 Artillery Battery
1 HQ Section [√ ]
1 Staff team [√ ]
1 Kfz 15 [√ ]
1 Kfz 68 radio truck [√ ]
2 Observer team [√ ]
2 Kubelwagen [√ ]
4 10.5cm leFH18 howitzer [have 2, 2 on order]
4 3-ton truck [√ ]

1 Tank-hunter Platoon
3 Panzerjäger I [have 2, 1 on order]

1 Self-propelled 75/18 Platoon
1 Carro Comando [have to order]
3 Semovente 75/18 [have to order]

Total List Cost: 1495

I will most likely tweak the list but, like I said...this will get me painting

Tim, they call him...

Entry for April 14, 2007

So...in the past few days I have FINISHED my Marines!!

HUZZAH!
HUZZAH!
HUZZAH!

HUZZ...oh look a bunny...here bunny, bunny, bunny...

Actually it was more like HUZZ...oh look, I can have tanks too...

Once more into the breach my friends (ie my ADD kicked in)...

I decided to take a break from my Marines and finish my Soviet Mixed Tank Battalion. Since this only involved decaling, weathering and varnishing ten T-34's (Medium Tank Company) I decided to give it a shot (I had assembled and sprayed them green some time back). I decided to run the points with the Ostfront book (originally I used "Za Stalina!").

Turns out the seven KV-1S's and the ten T-34 Obr. 41's is almost 1500 pts. So my eight Lend-lease M3A1 Stuarts were superfluous. It occured to me that they were ready made (assembled and base coated) for my Marine light tank support, well five of them at least. I will have to figure out what to do with the remaining three.

Oh wait...I said, "...seven KV-1S's and the ten T-34 Obr. 41's is almost 1500 pts...". I have five BA-10 armored cars and tank riders for the T-34's to make up the rest of the points.

Anyway...so now I have the aircraft to paint (3x), both objective markers to paint, and the M3A1'a to finish...

Entry for April 09, 2007

Ahhh....good news sports fans...I am sliding into home plate...

I have all my Marines, painted, standed, bases done and labeled. All that is left to declare them finished is a quick check to be sure I didn't miss anything...and then varnish them...wait....crap! I still have to weather the vehicles...sigh...ok that still isn't so bad.

I also started work on my two objective markers. The first one is a downed F4F. I have that one pretty much ready for painting and base detailing. I think the second one will be a command tent or something similiar...

Then I can be done...

Then I have to choose from ...

FOW Aufklarungs Kompanie
FOW Panzer Division
FOW US Paratroopers (LW - finishing)
40K Dark Angels
WHFB Vampire Counts
WHFB Tomb Kings (finishing)
Hordes Army
My WWI Air Game



Tim, they call him...

Entry for April 06, 2007

I swore to myself that I will get these Marines done or it's "...up on the rooftop with a magnum..." time. It really isn't that bad, but I have a number of projects that I want to start and the temptation to abandon this one is strong...since I am aware of my tendency to do this I am fighting it...we will see where this goes...

Tim, frustrated they call him...

Entry for March 22, 2007

Marines...

I am currently focusing my attention on the bases...It truly is hard to remain focused now that they are so near completion. They are perfectly playable and the desire to switch to something else is almost overwhelming. In truth I did the same thing with my US Para's (Bastonge). I stopped when they were "playable" and left a lot of the details unfinished. My intention of course was to revisit them and finish them another day...didn' t happen.

I think to avoid this, rather than paint an entire army at once I will stick with units, finish them completely then move on to the next.

Et tu, Brute?

Possibly the most famous three words ever uttered, "Et tu, Brute?" has come to mean ultimate betrayal by one's closest friend.

Caesar almost certainly did not, in fact, utter these precise words upon his assassination. Ancient sources report that he either died wordlessly or said "Kai su, teknon?", Greek for "You too, my child?"

Beware the Ides of March!

The Romans had special names for three specific days in each month. Origianlly the system appears to have been based on phases of the Moon (Luna). In the early days of the Republic they became fixed days.

The named days were:

• Kalendae (Kalends) — first day of the month, from which the word "calendar" is derived; thought to have originally been the day of the new moon. Interest on debt was due on Kalends (Oi!).
• Nones — depending on the month, could be the 5th or the 7th day; originally thought to have been the day of the half moon.
• Ides — depending on the month, could be the 13th or the 15th day; thought to have originally been the day of the full moon. The Romans considered this an auspicious day in their calendar.

Months with Nones on the 5th and Ides on the 13th days: January, February, April, June, August, September, November, December.

Months with Nones on the 7th and Ides on the 15th days: March, May, July, October.

These rules are summarised in the following mnemonic:

In March, July, October, May

The Ides fall on the fifteenth day

The Nones the seventh; all besides

Have two days less for Nones and Ides.

Thus endith the lesson...

Entry for March 14, 2007

Finish Marines...must...finish...must...finish...

I need to get my Marines done...

Then I will work on my Curse you Red Baron game for Gamex '07...

I also want to take a shot at either the WHFB tourney or the Warmachine/Hordes tourney... I love the figures from Privateer Press, but I know the WHFB rules pretty well. So I guess the cool mini's loose out to knowledge ( and old age & treachery).

Of the WHFB armies I have (ha ha) Tomb Kings would be easiest to field...but the hardest to play. They require a lot of timing (like the WAB Byzantines did). I haven't had enough time to get a feel for them.

Vampire counts I could play well with, but I have almost no figures painted for them...same with Dark Elves, though DE have a steep learning curve as well...

So its either get some time in playing WHFB with my Tomb Kings or start painting wolves...lots and lots of wolves...

Entry for March 08, 2007

By the way, have I mentioned I hate painting infantry lately? If not I am well overdue for a rant on painting infantry...next time it an armored unit. No more spindly-legged figures clutching the ground for me...give me a few 60 ton hunks of steel (scale tons) to paint...

I need to finish these Marines so I can work on my StuG III's...I have 12 or so and maybe 4 or so StuG IV's...17th SS GvB in Normandy at Carentan...then on to my Fallschimjager..damn...more bloddy infantry...

I could do my Brit Para's instead?

Tim, they call him...

Entry for March 01, 2007

I am getting real close with my Marines...Started detailing the bases on the snipers....

I think I can get this done in a week...then its time to put them on the shelf...never to be used again...

On the the next project!

Tim, they call him...

Entry for February 26, 2007

TODAY IS ADD DAY!!

Mark and Larry both purchased Warhammer Historical's "The Old West" rules. Turns out they are a version of GW's "Lord of the Rings" game. Simple enough really. Dump the magic, and the different races, add some guns and historical flavor and Presto! old West rules!

Larry read through them and mentioned how you could adapt them to other periods...Mark mentioned adapting them to Ancients or Pirates. I have taken it upon myself to adapt them to WWI & WWII.

Simple realy...again change the wording around...add some historical flavor...BAR's, MG's and artillery...and Presto! I have some interesting ideas for this and will have to see where this will take me...

Marines...paint Marines....

Entry for February 25, 2007

Status Report:

My Scout, Weapons (LMG & Mortar), HMG and AT platoons, just need some detail work, base detailing and varnishing.

My three Rifle platoons just need the "green" web gear painted and I can move them up to the status of my Scout platoon.

I spent this weekend in between other things getting the khaki leggings & musette bags painted, plus the boots and drybryshing the bases. Its hard to believe, but I am almost there.

For detail work I need to check the figures, one by one for :

• errors and omissions
• painted rifle slings (leather) and buckles
• helmet chin straps (green)
  
• canteen caps (black)
  
• maybe chevrons (faded black)...

For bases:

• debris (rocks, boxes, spent cartridges, etc)
• flora (static grass, shrubs, palm fronds, etc)
• labels (platoon designation)
  

wow...another week and I should have it done!

Then I have to find me some son's of Nippon to send politely to the Deity of their choice (or nearest convenient parallel dimension.)

Entry for February 20, 2007

The Con is over...all in all it was a good one. The one game I really wanted to see played was a no show (Wargods of Aegyptus) . Saturday I got a swap table and despite forgetting a bunch of my for sale stuff I pocketed $160 in around 30 min. Good deal as far as I am concerned! I picked up a copy of the Warmachine rules (I like the mini's & a lot of people are playing it). I spent some time watching a version of WWII and the WHFB tourney on Sunday. I have to get some playing time in with the new 7th ed. rules. I saw several interesting games with at least one side being TK or VC's. Interesting game of an almost complete tree WE army vs. VC. Also saw a VC vs. TK's...very interesting.

: TK = Tomb Kings; VC = Vampire Counts; WE = Wood Elves

I have been doing some thinking about my long term projects. I currently have the figures to make the following:

• Dark Elf Army
• Lizardman Army
• Vampire Counts Army

I have a completed Tomb Kings Army that has some more units unpainted I can add.

The Lizardmen are going to go. I just have to decide to paint them or sell them unpainted. I am leaning towards painting (I can use the experience) and the money is better.

Not sure what to do about the Vampire Counts army. They were "set up" to be the Army of Sylvania, which may be out of the new book and not tourney legal anymore...I also was going to do some heavy conversion and base the army on the movie "VanHelsing"...but I am starting to loose interest in that (ADD again?)

Same thing with the Dark Elves...I had this great modeling project in mind with dark grey, black and purple...lots of snow on the bases. My interest has waned for this project as well. I suppose I will sit on them and see if it rekindles.

I have learned a lesson from this..."Strike while the iron is hot..." In other words don't spend forever thinking and researching a project or you might loose your enthusiasm for it.

I do have a lot of those Dire Wolves...mmmmmmmmmm

Tim, they call him...

Entry for February 15, 2007 (Supplemental)

Status Report:

My scout platoon & AT platoon are finished!

My remaining platoons:

• Based on colored & textured bases.
• Base coated in light sage green and washed in US Dark Green
• Skin (flesh) painted and washed in Kell's Brown.
• Helmets painted w/3 color brown camo and washed in brown
• Rifle stocks painted.Skin (flesh) painted and washed in Kell's Brown.
• Helmets painted w/3 color brown camo and washed in brown
• Rifle stocks painted.

TDB

• Boots
• Web Gear
• "Metal" weapons parts
• Touch up
• Finish bases
• Kill lots of Japanese...

Unfortunately, I was going to bring them to Orccon in Los Angeles to beat up on Larry, but I didn't finish The good news is that he didn' t either, so I at least have a moral victory for the USMC!

'till next time...

Tim, they call him...

Entry for February 14, 2007

Sigh...just when you think it is safe to go back in the water, life has a way of throwing a large shark in your direction.

I had last night all planned out...go home, feed my two little piranha, work on my Marines and watch some TV. Instead I end up in the ER for some IV antibiotics and an overnight stay. Sucks all around. Just to show you I have my priorities straight, once I was sure my Piranha (kids) would be OK, I considered sending someone after some of my paints and mini's so I would have something to do. Reality reared it's ugly head when I realized I felt waaaaaay to sick to do any painting...Once again the proper priorities re-asserted themselves and I decided that the doctor wouldn't have sent me to hospital if it wasn't serious...so I should just lay back not complain to much and let the med's work...

HOUSE!...it was Tuesday night and I would miss House! (sorry it is the one TV show I like). I conned my children into taping it for me (they do provide useful services from time to time). I guess I wasn't feeling that poorly...

Anyway, I got sprung this morning and came home to work on my Marines with a vengeance (sleep) or baring that at least get my army list into a usable fashion (sleep), or check my bills (sleep)...sleep...lots of it...

Tim, annoyed they call him...

Entry for February 11, 2007

Status Report:

Ok...I am coming down the home stretch with my Marine Rifle Company.

I currently have all my platoons:

• Based on colored & textured bases
• Base coated in light sage green and washed in US Dark Green
• Skin (flesh) painted.
• Helmets painted w/2 color brown camo.

One platoon has the helmets and flesh, washed with brown wash (Kell's). I am going to try to finish washing the helmets and flesh tonight and move onto the boots, weapons, and web gear. I think I can just make this before the con...

Tim, they call him...

Entry for February 10, 2007

Made a trip to The Last Grenadier in Burbank today. They had the OG 75mm SPM's that were backordered from War Web. Ironically enough they are the best representation of the SPM. They are the only model which has the gun shield pivot with the gun...actually it is the only model which pivots. That's the good news...the bad news is the guns themselves are wrong. The 75mm gun used on the SPM/GMC was a destinctive weapon. The OG gun is just wrong. I solved the problem by using the guns from the QC SPMs. So now I have a SPM with the right number of front louvers, the correct gun that pivots with its gunshield...not to mention a nice looking crew. Life is good!

Tim, they call him...(many things actually)

Entry for February 05, 2007

My order from Warweb showed up. I ordered some Command Decision 75mm SPM (SMC's), some M37 3/4 ton trucks and a Quick Reaction Force 37mm AT Gun (US). The QRF AT gun looks disappointing. I am going to have to do some checking...frankly it may be a different model of 37mm gun...there is no gunshield, the breach guard is missing and the trails are way too short. I am guessing I got or ordered the wrong thing. Time will tell...

I will have to compare:

• M3 37mm AT guns from Battlefront and Quality Casting.
• 75mm SPMs from Battlefront, Quality Casting and Command Decision.
• M37 3/4 ton trucks from Battlefront, Quality Casting and Command Decision.

This will take a couple of days to do...but I am looking forward to this....

Tim, deranged they call him....

Entry for February 01, 2007

"Any allied personnel. Any allied personnel. I have begun to take prisoners. Request instructions re: prisoners or will be forced to shoot same". - Maj. Frank Burns

Status Report -

My Scouts are done! Well almost...they are painted and standed and drybrushed. Maybe some detail work and varnish, but other than that they are complete.

My AT guns are rolling along nicely I would put the entire platoon at 85% complete, lacking detail work and vehicle markings

Two rifle platoons, the mortar platoon and the Company HQ has the uniform and flesh base-coated. That leaves me with a rifle platoon; the weapons platoon (mixed mortars & Lmg's); and the Hmg platoon to do the flesh on. I will have to take some time to work on my SPM's and other vehicles this weekend. I have come across an interesting idea for a carrying case (more on that later!)

I have been reading some on the USMC vehicle camouflage and markings. They appear to be much more haphazard than the US Army's system.

The basic rules seem to be:

• Stars were uncommon or often painted out (the exception being aerial recognition stars on the upper decks of tanks and other afv's)
• Camouflage was applied in the field based upon local conditions and orders.
• Most vehicles had a base coat of Olive Drab or Forrest Green. Sometimes camouflage was applied either partially or completely obscuring the base coat (there is a picture of USMC "sand" colored M3 Stuarts purportedly at Midway).

That's all for now...

Tim, they call him...

Tim's Review of 15mm Miniatures

Tim's Review of Figures

This is an update of my original 15mm miniature review. I have been looking for some alternative 15mm WWII mini's and would like to share my thoughts. Be aware that these are my personal opinions, so if I have gored anyone's sacred ox…my apologies…

From Left to Right...

#4 - Battle Honors - US Marine Advancing
#5 - Battlefront - US Para
#6 - Old Glory/Command Decision - US Army in Greatcoat
#7 - Resistant Roosters - US Army in Greatcoat
#8 - Peter Pig - US Para

Height (I measured these, the scale in the pic is 1mm off)

• Battle Honors - 13mm
  
• Battlefront - 16mm
• Command Decision - 15mm
• Resistant Roosters - 18mm
• Peter Pig - 15mm

Proportions

• Battle Honors - BH mini's are in proportion for the scale, trouble is the scale is approx 13mm or 86% of what it should be.
• Battlefront - BF uses "heroic" or comic proportions for their mini's. It's like everyone is Arnold Schwarzenegger.
• Command Decision - CD's minis are proportioned ok, though sometimes hands and faces are too big.
• Resistant Roosters - RR guys are big. Not only do they measure in around 17-18mm, the proportions are off.
  
• Peter Pig - Pig's proportions are ok, the legs and feet are a little thick sometimes, but they look good.

General Comments

Battlefront (Flames of War) Currently the "Gold Standard". A wide variety, with good poses (ETO only!). These guys are a little on the large side or 'heroic' as they are called. Lots of detail and very dynamic; they are closer to 17mm than 15mm. Some of the early castings are true 15mm and look thin and static compared to the later ones. Nothing wrong with that, but it can look odd when you mix figures. BF's uses a soft casting alloy which makes the mini's easy to convert. The tank & gun barrels are a little thick scale wise, but that is done for miniature strength purposes and doesn't look out of place; perception is reality... They are also a bit pricy; an average tank company will have approx 12 tanks, at $9-$10 each…do the math.

Command Decision/Old Glory - Or WWII at a more economic level. OG has a good mix of poses and a good range of figures (ETO & PTO). I am a little mixed on OG's stuff. The price per mini is very good; foot is typically around 50 for $27 and vehicles three per pack at $21. They frequently run 20-40% off sales, so they are even a better value at times. The consistency between the ranges is mixed. A few fit in very well with BF's "heroic" figures. Others are much smaller and look too small next to BF's but fit well with Peter Pig's mini's.

With a little work their vehicles are just as good as BF's. OG's lead alloy is soft, which is most evident in smaller parts which bend easily (MG's and such). Some of their barrels seem a bit thin...I have noticed this most obviously on their Pz III's and some 37mm Flak mounted on halftracks. I am not sure if it extends to other tanks in the line. In general the newer the mini's are the better the sculpting and larger the size.

I have three big gripes about OG mini’s:

• The boots are often perfectly in scale – ie, they are thin and can snap off easily
• OG vehicles have an annoying tendency to have a mold line running around or through the middle of the model.
• OG models tend to have a lot of flash/molding lines that require cleanup.
  

Resisitant Roosters - Produce Finns, Germans, Japanese and some interesting US (ETO infantry in greatcoats!) in limited scope. These look good on the site, but are disappointing in person (at least the Japanese and US in greatcoats are). The castings are "soft" lacking crisp lines and detail. They may suffer from the 'Gripping Beast syndrome' of looking better painted up than not, so I may correct my first impression after I paint some. They don’t match well with any of the other ranges

Peter Pig (Range 8) I like Pig's miniatures. They cover everything from early war to late war; ETO; PTO; and probably a theater or two I have missed. To me they are the Ral Partha of 15mm. The problem is, like Ral Partha they are true to scale (15mm in this case) and in general the foot don't mix well with other lines. Not too much of a problem if you stick with Pig, but mixing is less than satisfactory. The alloy Pig uses for casting is strong, but can be brittle when you try to bend arms and heads. This is a good thing for MG's and such. Incidentally, Pig's vehicles are a good match for the other lines. Pig also makes heads, so for example you can use British heads with their pie pan helmets on the bodies of US Marines to create early Marines. My one gripe about Pigs mini's is some of the gun barrels on the tanks are a bit thick...

Quality Casting/Battle Honors miniatures – Nice large range that covers both ETO & PTO); QC has some problems, however:

• The infantry are very small at 13-14mm (the vehicles are in scale)
• They are a little pricy (three vehicles for $29)
• Castings in general not as good as OG and more expensive.
• Some of QC’s vehicle castings are very poor representations of their originals.
• For some reason QC's tires are only one sided (the back is smooth). Not a real problem on trucks and such, but it looks bad on towed AT guns.
  

Conclusions

The Good
If I buy more troops they will be either Battlefront or Peter Pig. Both have great detail and a wide range of figures. It is unfortunate that the figures don't mix well. BF's are more heroic and PP's less so. So in most cases it is all BF or all PP...CD/OG can mix well with PP, but not BF.


The Not so Good...
CD/OG figures are good in a pinch, the price is right and you can afford some bad castings. They also make some teams and accessories that are hard or impossible to find from other manufacturers ranges, I also find that if you want to put crew in vehicles (fighting from half-tracks, etc), CD/OG is the way to go...


The Bad...
Battle Honors/Quality Casting (They are the same) There is no reasons to use these figures. Maybe if you got the whole company for free...maybe. The figures are small and not particularly well sculpted. They don't mix well with anything else...DON'T GO TOWARDS THE LIGHT...I don't mean to be so vitriolic about it, but I have been burned twice on these guys...It has been an expensive lesson and I am a bit annoyed

And the Ugly...
Resistant Roosters, I just don't know where to go here. I have seen a number of examples from two different lines and they just don't cut it. The web site shows them off nicely, but I was shocked when I got my order from them. They are too big; the sculpting is was below standard; the proportions completely off. I don't know how else to put it.

Remember these are my opinions...feel free to disagree and by all means comment!

Web Resources

Size Comparisons

Article on 15mm and "large" 15mm figures
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~trochim/articles/15mmNap.pdf

For 25's – 28's
http://www.warflag.com/shadow/cast/figuresize/figuresize1.jpg

Where to buy:

BattleFront/Flames of War
http://www.thewarstore.com/battlefrontflamesofwarwwii.html

Command Decision/Old Glory
http://www.warweb.com/old-glory-15mm-world-war-c-70_138_1417_413.html

Resistant Roosters
http://www.thewarstore.com/resistantroosterswwii.html

Peter Pig
http://www.brookhursthobbies.com/Peter%20Pig/peter_pigR8.htm

Quality Casting.Battle Honors
http://www.warweb.com/quality-casting-wwii-c-70_153_420.html

Entry for January 30, 2007

Last night I was tired and spent more time reading than painting. I think the biggest problem I have in finishing an army is getting past the point I enjoy.

I enjoy cleaning, organizing the figures, priming them and getting them on stands. I like texturing the stands and doing detail work like adding sandbags, ammo belts, pouches, bags, packs, spent brass, etc... I just really hate painting the infantry. Which probably explains why my Aufklarungs company has it's vehicles done and no real infantry painted to speak of. Damn...I have to think about what I am doing...

To date I have the following "armies":

Russian Mixed Tank Battalion [base coated] ( 7 x KVIs, 10 x T34s, 7 x BA10s, 10 x Lend Lease Stuarts, 10 x Tank Riders and 3 x Stormoviks )

US Parachute Company (D/2/506th PIR - Bastogne) [complete] ( 3 x Para Rifle/Mg platoons, Mortar platoon, MG platoon, AAA platoon, TD, 105mm Arty & M4 support and 3 x P51s)

US Parachute Company (E/2/506th PIR - (Normandy) [base coated] ( 2 x Para Rifle/Mg platoons, Mortar platoon, MG platoon, TD & M4 support and 3 x P38s)

DAK PzGdr Kompanie [base coated] (2 x PzGdr platoons, HMG platoon, 3 xPak 38, 2 x 88mm Flak 36, 8 x Pz III J. (long 50), 5 x PZ IV G. 2 x Tiger I, 3 x Diana, 3 x Stuka Ds)

Aufklarungs Squadron (16 SS) [partial complete] (1 x Aufklarungs platoon 1 x Armored Pioneer platoon (7 x SdKfx 251D/7s), 3 x lG 75's, 3 x Armored Car Patrols (SdKfz 250 & SdKfz 250/9 2cm), 3 x Marder III, 3 x Armoured SdKfz 7/2 (3.7cm))

Panzer Kompanie (17SS) [models built] (14 x Stug III, 2 x StuG IV, 2 x 88mm Flak 36, 3 x Pak 40's)

GD Panzer Grenadier Kompanie [base coated] (1 x Armored PzGdr platoon (5 xSdKfz 251 Cs) 1 x Motorized PzGdr platoon, Armored Mortar platoon (2 x SdKfz 251/2 (81mm) & 1 x SdKfz 251/3), 2 x Tiger IEs and 3 Stuka Gs (37mm))

Marine Rifle Company (E series) [working] 3 x Marine Rifle platoon, Weapons platoon (LMG & 60mm mortar), HMG platoon, Mortar platoon, AT platoon (4 x 37 mm AT), Cannon platoon (2 x SPM (75mm)) and 3 x Wildcats.)

Unattached: US Battery SPA (6 x M7 Priests); US Transport (6 x 2.5 ton trucks); US AT platoon (4 x GMC 3 (75mm) SP AT mounts); 2 x 88mm Flak 36; 2 x 88mm Pak 43; 1 x T34;

This doesn't count the Nebelwurfers, Fallschirmjager, More StuG's ; German Arty, etc that is still in the box...

Anyone want to buy some FoW troops??

Sigh...I did eventually pick up my AT gun platoon. The crew all had helmets without the covers so I spent some time texturing the helmets and painting the base coat flesh and light tan for the helmet covers. More tonight...

Tim, they call him...

Entry for January 28, 2007

I did a little more work on my scout platoon. I added green back into the camo mix as the browns made them get a little lost on the bases. I know that is the point of camo, but if I am going to spend all that time painting them I want people to notice them. They look pretty good. I just have to paint the rifles & weapons, and finish off the bases (palm branches, bushes, low/tall grass...not sure yet). Next the 37 mm AT guns are up...I replaced the trucks from QC/BH with Battlefront ones.

I did order some CD M37 trucks, SPM's for my comparison. Old Glory/CD doesn't make US 37mm AT guns (I guess their primary focus is on ETO), but I have some from QC & BF that I will compare. Maybe I should add some StuG's or tanks to this....

Tim, they call him...

Entry for January 25, 2007

Ok...I can finally say my Marines are standed on textured, painted bases and have their uniforms base coated!

The remainder is mostly detail work (which I enjoy). I also found a color I like for the Marine's equipment and vehicles. I mixed up some Vallejo Brown Violet & US Dark Green with some white to shade it and came up with a nice green color. I tested it on one of the 37mm AT guns and liked it so much I painted the remaining three with it.

I am now staring at my SPMs which are a different green and wondering if I should strip them or leave them be. I can always strip them later...

As for my trucks...sigh...I need to mention something. I ordered some vehicles from the War Web by Quality Casting. I an guessing here that Quality Casting is a division of Battle Honors. Everything I ordered from the Quality Casting page showed up in Battle Honors packaging. The down side is that I know I don't like the Battle Honors stuff. The figures are on the small side (12-13mm); the models have trouble with tires (no detail on the reverse side; usually too small and obvious casting lines down the center of the tread) and they have way too many pieces.

The M37 3/4 ton truck is typical of QC's offerings. It comes in nine parts: body, frame, four tires, windscreen, soft top and steering wheel. I was particularly impressed by the steering wheel and frame. One of my gripes about Battlefront is their lack of steering wheels for unoccupied vehicles. With minimal flash removal and cleanup I began to assemble the trucks. QC uses soft lead so it was easy to bend/align the parts correctly. The frame, body and windscreens went on nicely. I decided to leave the soft top off.

So far so good... Then I tried to install the steering wheel. The "dash" of the M37 has a hole cast in it so I tried fitting the stearing wheel. It was so big that most of it was above the dash top. Ok, no big deal...I will solve the problem by placing a driver in the front seat. Using one of QC's drivers (which is a small figure) his knees come up over the top of the dash and his head over the top of the windscreen. Ok... I decided to revisit this later and at least complete the M37 and get it painted. Next I went to install the wheels...Looking at pictures of this vehicle I noticed the tires are pretty close to the fenders (see picture above). The model's tires were way too low (or the tires too small). I thought about all the things I could to do correct this and decided to consign them to the parts bin and never order from QC again...never!

What really annoys me is that someone sculpted these miniatures and even accepting they were working from a smaller scale then traditional 15mm, you would think that a driver from the same company and the same line would fit in it's own vehicles (I had QC's SPMs and they have the same problem with the drivers). Does no one test fit these things? What about the steering wheel? That came with the M37 model. Why doesn't that fit? These things aren't cheap and I don't understand how a company can continue to market and sell something which to me is substandard?

I am going to order some 15mm items from different companies and do a complete review and comparison (with pictures).

Tim, they call him...

WHFB Vampire Army - Entry for January 24, 2007

I have been half-assed working on a WHFB Vampire Counts army for a while now. I picked the list of the Army of Sylvania and want to do a "van Helsing" theme.

Here are my planned substitutions:

Vampire Lord/Count:Count Vladislaus Draculea

Vampire Thralls:

• Marishka
• Aleera
• Verona

Zombies: Dwergii

Bat Swarms: Draculea’s Children (green bat swarms, imps)

Black Coaches:

#1 van Helsing driving coach fighting werewolf and harpies (Draculea's wives)

#2 Substitution - Igor riding Frankenstein's Monster into party.

Dire Wolves: Lots and lots of them...got to have wolves!.

One of the nice things about blogging, is it reminds you of what you are working on...

Have to find some way to work mini-sloths into this theme...or not...

Tim

Entry for January 24, 2007

That article on painting an army in a week (http://wargames.nordalia.com/index.php?page=viewarticle&id=19) I have been inspired. Last night I finished the base coat on most of my bases. At this stage I have paused to reflect on a few things.

My current painting sequence:

1. Clean and organize the figures.
2. Mount the figures and texture the bases
3. Prime everything at once
4. Paint the figures
5. Paint the bases
6. Clean up and dry brush everything
7. Static grass, etc
8. Seal with varnish

For my next army it will be:

1. Clean and organize the figures.
2. Mount them in base order on sticks
3. Prime & paint
4. Mount the figures and texture the bases (with colored texture medium)
5. Clean up and drybrush everything
6. Static grass, etc
7. Seal with varnish

One less step and lots less frustration. Lar-Lar had commented that it is hard to paint the figures when they are already mounted on a base. I don't find it any harder to paint them on a base compared to mounted in a line on sticks. What I do find harder is to paint the base around the figures. I have to do it twice...once with a small brush for the hard to reach spots and then once with a large brush to cover the big areas...if I mix paint in with the Liquitex sand medium, I won't have to do much more than drybrush...

I will have to remember that for my mini-sloths...

Tim, they call him...

Entry for January 23, 2007

More Success!

Last night I decided to get the basic uniform (base color shirt & pants. So I mixed up some of my "Marine Green" and got to work. Surprisingly it only took a few hours for the 200+ mini's involved. I then started in on some of the helmets.

In doing some more research I noticed a aberration in my previous paint scheme for the brown camo. In one picture I used (from Osprey) the brown camo has some green spots in it. I was using Battlefront's 2nd Armored ETO camo uniform as a base to do my Marines. It also has green in it. But the more I looked, the more I found the brown camo without the green in it. I don't know if the USMC had variations in their camo (it appears the camo for the USMC para's is different from the "regular" Marines); or if different contractors produced variations; or maybe the single Osprey drawing is wrong (Osprey makes more errors than I care to admit). Anyway...I decided to go with the all "brown" brown camo.

My new colors for the Marine camo uniforms are as follows:

Brown Camo
Base: Vallejo German WWII Beige-Camo (faded)
Color 1: Vallejo US Field Drab (medium patches - faded)
Color 2: Vallejo German Camouflage Orange Ochre (medium patches - faded)
Color 3: Vallejo Flat Brown (small patches - faded)


Its not a very good pic, but the pic above has this pattern on the figures helmets.

Happy with my new camo, I went to work on my scouts and snipers. After completing the first two camouflage colors I became concerned about my somnambulistic painting skills and after cleaning my brush, drifted off into the land of Nod.

More painting tomorrow!

Tim, they call him...

Entry for January 21, 2007

Good news ...

As of this morning I have my entire Marine company based and primed! Hurray for my side!

Now I will have to paint them..ugh!

Now for the disclaimer. I am not a paint nazi. Well not when it comes to other people's stuff. With mine...I am a bit more...ah...exacting shall we say...

I have been looking at color pics and artwork (Osprey books) of WWII Marine uniforms. The uniform used by the Marines in combat was intended as a working uniform (fatigues) but ended up being their most recognizable combat uniform. My thought was that I should plan out what I was going to attempt to achieve before I did it.

So...

My basic Marines would get the faded sage-green Herring Bone Twill (HBT) combat fatigues and brown camo helmet covers (Marine camo came with two variations of base color, refered to as "brown" and "green")

My scouts and snipers would get the brown Marine combat fatigues with matching helmet covers.

To start with I have been wanting to try something I have been reading about which is the effect of scale on color. I have checked out a few art books and done some reading on the IPMS site and found that at 15mm the colors should be 15% or so lighter than what color swatches show. Since this is the Pacific we are talking about (land of sun and rain) I am going to lighten everything a bit more to say 20% off the "full scale" color.

Starting with the HBT fatigues, I decided to use Reaper's Ghoul Grey as a base and lighten it with Vallejo's Sky Grey ( I tried this later with Vallejo US Dark Green and acheived almost the same color). The result is a very faded grey green - just what I was looking for! I also used this on the soft utility covers some of the figures had.

While that platoon was drying I got out my scouts and snipers. They all got a base coat of Vallejo German WWII Beige-Camo (faded with 20% white). Next I applied irregular dots of Flat Brown and US Dark Green (both faded). The camo dots were too...loud... so I lightly over-brushed the figure with the base color (German WWII Beige-Camo) to tone it down.

I liked the look, but Marine camouflage uniforms had three colors + a base, so I need to find a color between the base and the brown camo color. Since the camo uniforms were reversable, the rolled up portion of the sleaves should show the "green" camo side. I am not sure I will be that much of a paint nazi though.

Brown Camo
Base: Vallejo German WWII Beige-Camo (faded)
Color 1: Vallejo Flat Brown (faded)
Color 2: Vallejo US Dark Green (faded)
Color 3: ??

Green Camo
Base: ??
Color 1: Vallejo Flat Brown (faded)
Color 2: Vallejo US Dark Green (faded)
Color 3: ??

Misc
Skin : Cote d'Arms - Suntanned Flesh
Uncovered Helmets & Equipment: Vallejo - Brown Violet (faded)
Web Gear: Vallejo - Green Grey(faded)
Backpacks/Belts/Leggings/etc : Vallejo - Khaki (faded)

Pictures soon...I promise...

Tim, they call him...

Entry for January 20, 2007

My challenge with the 37mm guns is that the models (Battle Honors) are 7 piece models (sight, barrel, gun shield, two tires & two trails). Given their size at 15mm they are going to be a pain to put together. I could go the easy route and order some from Battlefront... I decided to put one together and see how it looked. After a lot of filing, swearing and use of my hobby knife (hah...no injuries!) I managed to clean one up for assembly. The trails in particular are very delicate and requited a lot of straightening to get them right.

On to assembly...

While Battle Honors provides a diagram on how the sight is installed (thank you!). They provide only a cryptic note that the trail with the tow hitch should be installed on the right side. Problem is the trail can be installed with the tow hitch up or down? A bit of research decided the issue - tow hitch down. That also makes it easy to orientate the left side trail.

The parts are very small and the assembly was done with tweezers. I finally had to result to using poster-tac to hold the parts in place relative to each other so the glue would have time to dry. The thought of ordering from Battlefront (simpler kit) was getting more attractive by the minute. When I finally got everything dry and removed from the grasp of the poster-tac a funny thing happened...I really liked the finished model. I would change the tires if I could (bad castings), but the model is a very nice representation of the US 37mm AT gun.

I spent a few hours building the remaining 37mm's (three more), basing them and setting them out to dry. The provided crew are a bit small in scale (all Battle Honors figures are closer to 12mm or 13mm), but I can live with it. I wanted to prime them, but the resin sand mix I use to texture the bases should dry for 12-24 hours before you paint it.

spent the rest of the day basing and texturing the remaining support platoons and priming the ones I already had based. Soon I will be forced to paint (I hate infantry).

Tim, they call him...

Entry for January 19, 2007

Msr. Stehle paid a visit today. Obstensively he was there to paint his Japanese mini's but I think he was there to spy on my Marines.

He did, however, bring mini-sloths. Upon seeing the aforementioned mini-sloths, my ADD kicked in and I began contemplating the building of a Hordes of Things mini-sloth army (Sid would be the general "Fire King!"). In my mind I saw hordes of mini-sloths scurrying forward to combat and eventually destroy Mark's garden gnome army (despite Sid's leadership).

It would be simple to cast those puppies up. I could probably crank out 10-12 an hour. Where is my HoT rule book? I will have to use a proxy army list...hmmmm which one I wonder?

Why am I holding a stand of Marine scouts?

Oh yeah...mini-sloths will have to wait.

Now I need to mark a pilot hole with my hobby knife so I can drill out an antenna mount on the commander's SCR-536 handi-talki.

About the best I can say about this is that at least I didn't put the hobby knife blade into my thumb (the one I injured with the drill). Nope I was good, I didn't injure my thumb again (thank God!). I am a little less proud of the fact that my index finger isn't speaking to me right now. It's just being pissy and bleeding...

I am curious to see if I injure my middle finger next. That would support the theory that I was working my way across my hand. The competing theory is that since I hold things in my left hand with my thumb and index finger, they will suffer the brunt of my unintended assaults.

Then again I could try holding things with my thumb and middle finger and see if that skews the results...

Oh yeah...all my infantry (I hate infantry) is standed...hurray! I have some hard decisions to make about the 37mm AT guns and support vehicles...I will save that for Saturday morning.

Tim, they call him...

Entry for January 18, 2007

Good News!

I have most of my Marines based (I hate infantry)!

It is nice seeing all the platoons lined up. I finished the SPM 75mm's (tire chains, etc). I sprayed them with flat black and baked them in the oven at 200 degrees for 20 minutes (it makes the paint really adhere to the model).

If you do this, be sure to put them on cardboard or something similar that doesn't transfer heat well.This weekend I will make a push to get everything standed, primed and start painting.

Tim, they call him...

Oh yeah the daemonic possession thing didn't work out. Too many rules...I didn't want to spit the pea soup out, etc, etc...

Entry for January 15, 2007

I spent an entire weekend without working on my miniatures. I think I am going into withdrawal. On a positive note...I didn't hurt myself with my pin drill or hobby knife.

Since I wasn't painting I am trying to decide if I should go for daemonic possession or schizophrenia. Looking at the possibilities I am not sure which would provide for the most options. Daemonic possession would definitely rate higher on the "weird sh*t-o-meter", but in this era of political correctness and labor unions it is hard to get the daemon's to cooperate these days.

It is bad when ones mind wanders...I will have to stop that.

Hmmmm a sudden urge to eat pea soup has just hit me...

Asmodeus, they call him...

Entry for January 11, 2007

I have been contemplating how to paint my "Mud Marines". Currently, my figure painting procedure works like this:

• Clean, stand and base the figure.
• Prime the figures/stand black.
• Dry brush base color.
• Ink with black Magic Wash.
• Light dry brush with base color.
• Light dry brush with weathering color (dust).
• Varnish.
  

Drop box on floor, swear a lot then start over.I am thinking of changing to priming in white, then inking with black ink, then drybrushing the base color.

My reasoning is that every picture I have see of Marines in the field shows their uniforms in various stages of fading and decay. This would be hard to acheive with a black base and a white one will serve to lighten the colors some. I also intend to lighten up the base coat color I use. I have been experimenting with pastels for "dust" and this may help as well...

Tim, they call him...

Entry for January 10, 2007

I woke up this morning and went out to stare at the detailing work I did on my Hmg teams...the firing section didn't look right to me...so I decided to add some sandbags. Sandbags made using green stuff are extremely easy. The only difficult part is keeping them from getting too large!I added a couple of rows of sand bags to the Hmg teams and they look better. So now a quick trip the art supply store for some more Liquitex resin sand medium and I can start basing my last rifle platoon.

Checking on the two platoons I based previously, with only one exception, the figures were rock solid on the stands (a few drops of cyanoacrylate fixed the single offender). So I feel confident my "new" basing method will be how I will do things in the future.

Actually I added a new twist. In another burst of brilliance (insanity?) I decided to apply the resin sand mix to the figure's base, then "work" it into the stand already coated with that same mix. The figure blended seemlessly with the mix on the stand and more time/frustration was saved. Actually in timing myself, the time is about the same, but the ease of application is a huge bonus (I hate infantry) but I digress.

I based two squads from my last rifle platoon (only one left) and applied the resin sand mix to my previously standed command and bazooka stands (8 of them).

I spent some time listening to Bush's mea culpa and after some yelling at the radio decided they weren't listening to me and went back to my modeling. I had been noticing that a number of pic's of USMC vehicles showed they chains in the tires - like snow chains. I guess using the same principle of giving better traction in the sand. I thought it might be interesting to model chains on my 75mm SPMs. Using a probe (i.e. needle on a stick), some cyanacrylate, some small chain and a magnifying glass I managed to make the basic chain structure on two of the tires. It remains to be seen if I will be happy with them.

I am avoiding putting together the 37mm AT guns (lots of small parts with ambiguous placement)...that and I ordered too many of them (4 packs of what I thought were one gun per pack; turns out they come 3 per pack...so now I have twelve). I am betting no one will allow me to make a "...force adjustment..." and field twelve of the suckers...maybe I will wreck a few and e-Bay the rest.

And that's the way it is, Wednesday, January 10, 2007

Thanks, Walter

Tim, them call him

Entry for January 9, 2007

I decided to work more on my Hmg teams. They offer a good source for modeling...that and I ran out of my resin sand mixture so I can't base my last rifle platoon. I have four Hmg teams, two firing and two moving guns/setting up.

Starting with the firing ones I made up some green stuff epoxy ribbon and added ammo belts (both with ammo and just the belt on the opposite side). It really adds to the figures. I then got ambitious and added condenser cans with green stuff hoses to the barrel jacket.

I carved up a firing gun and placed the tripod on a base to make it look like a gun being set up. A little bending of the figures adds to that look. I added an ammo belt with rounds in it from the gun breach over the Marine's back (he is carrying it across his chest) and an expended belt dangling from the outside of the breach. Again, it adds something to the "feel" of the scene. The other moving gun I left alone (sometimes, less is more...).

It's hard to work on such a small scale adding accessories and modeling small details, but green stuff is wonderful. It remains pliable for forty fire minutes or so; won't stick to anything wet (keep your tools wet); can be smoothed with alcohol and a brush and textures easily. So far I have used it to make hatch covers on AFVs; belts; straps; sand bags; tarps & bundles; ammo belts; hoses and tubes...and...and...thats all I remember. I highly recommend it.

I have to remember to include some pictures of the stuff I am describing...

Tim, they call him

Entry for January 09, 2007

Marines??

What are Marines again??

I have this nice special order FAMO SdKfz 9, 18 ton recovery vehicle I ordered from Battlefront. Actually I have two but decided to e-Bay one out.

Anyway, I have been looking for any information on markings the Germans applied to the FAMOs. Specifically I was looking for any tactical markings used on them. For example Tiger tanks had a rhomboid with an "S" inside as a tactical marking. We are talking something on the order of a couple of mm's in length. Silly to worry about at 15mm scale, but the FAMO is almost devoid of markings beyond license plates (which I have) so I wanted to put on something to make it stand out.

After digging through picture after picture in my books and online I finally found a clear shot of a FAMO with tactical markings showing. Success!

Now my FAMO has a complete set of markings (as complete as I can make them) and it sits on the end of my table waiting varnishing with my three Sd.Kfz.7/2's AA tracks & trailers and the two HJ Tiger IE's.I didn' t spend all day on my FAMO.

I took a hard look at my Gross Deutschland panzergrenadiers and realized I had too many. So I set the force up for both mid-war and late-war (with panzerfausts) and realized I had a whole panzergrenadier company sans support. A few finishing touches and its e-Bay for them too.

I have no life...lol

Tim, they call him...

Entry for January 08, 2007

The lithium must be helping...no ADD for two days!

The rifle platoon I did with my "new" basing method seems to be nice and stable. I may coat the base with thinned down white glue (which will make the bases "rock" hard when it dries), but I will see how things go.

So with a tentative validation of my new basing method I based another platoon this way (two down!). I took a good look at my scouts and my Hmg platoon and decided I had to make some changes.

Scouts - Command Decision makes Marines with helmets or soft utility covers. I decided I liked the look of the utility caps on the scouts and the helmets with the "regular" Marines. So out comes the diagonal cutters aka dikes (hee...hee...he said "dikes") and off come the standing scouts with helmets. They are replaced by Marines in the utility caps. One squad of scouts are prone. I decided to leave them as be as they looked "sneaky" and scout-like to me (I also seem to have a dearth of prone fig's with utility caps).

Hmgs- The four guns I had based were the classic water cooled M1917A1 Browning mg's. While sorting through my figure packs I noticed some figures that were depicted moving a M1917A1. So I poped off two of the guns and figures and mounted two as being moved/set up. I am going to make some sandbags; condenser cans; ammo boxes and spent shell casings for the Hmg's to make them look better.

Shoot...now I remember what I wanted to add to my Sd.Kfz 7/2's...spent shell casings...I should make a list...

I also textured the bases of the Hmg's with Liquitex, using my "old" method.

Tim, they call him...

Entry for January 07, 2007

Marines?? Oh yeah...Marines...

I spent some time during my breaks researching a painting guide for my "mud marines". The only one I came up with used Reaper paints and seemed too bright to me. But it gave me some ideas.

When I got home, I put away my aufklarungs squadron and my Russians (did I mention I have a Russian Tank Battalion?) and spread my Marines out. I had previously standed my two scout squads, the Hmg platoon and most of the command stands I would need. I had used a Sharpie to mark the bottoms of the stands so I would know who was who. So I lined them up by unit and decided to break down and start the rifle platoons...(I hate painting infantry).

I have been using a product from Liquitex http://www.liquitex.com/Products/texgelmedresinsand.cfm) that is a resin sand acrylic mix to texture bases. You can mix paint with it to color it (and it won't crack). Even put on flat it will have a nice texture to it. It comes in bottles and has a consistency somewhere between paste and Cream of Wheat.

Anyway, it takes a while to work it over the figure bases once all the figures are down. In a stroke of brilliance (and yess my thumb still hurts) I decided to see if I could use the Liquitex mix to glue the figures to the stands. Spread the Liquitex on the stand, work the figures into the Liquitex and a little touch up and taadaa...well we will see.

I did an entire rifle platoon this way. It took me around five to eight minutes per stand, v.s. ten to fifteen minutes doing it the old way. I will have to see how hold up when they dry.

I really do have no life...

Tim, they call him...

Entry for January 05, 2007

Still waiting for my AT guns from War Web...waiting...waiting...sure glad I picked 2nd day shipping...waiting...waiting...

ADD day again. No Marines; got bored with my Aufklarungs (too much dunkelgelb) so switched to my US Para's. Actually I should say my other US Para's. I have a company of US Para's (D/2/506th PIR) modeled after the Bastonge siege. I have to add some stands of figures to bring it up to late war organization. These are all Battlefront figures and have supporting M-10 TDs and a battery of colored artillery as support. I like these guys and how they turned out...snow and all.

I also have a company of US Para's that is 75% painted. I keep changing my mind on what unit they will be (509th PIB North Africa/504th PIR [82nd AB] Waal River/506th PIR [101st AB] Normandy) so it is hard to finish them. I decided to line them up and add a Para Engineer Platoon to them. This involved some head swaps (which were a problem) and sculpting some first-aid pouches on some of the helmets.

Why add first-aid pouches to the helmets when you can just do some more head swaps? A couple of reasons. This second unit is all made from Peter Pig figures. They don't make para engineers. So I used some army engineer figures and either had to swap the heads or add pouches to make them look more like paratroopers and less like army engineers.

The head swap is the easiest:

• Clip off the army head.
• Clip off a para head.
• Use a pin drill to drill out the army body and the para head.
• Glue a thin brass or steel wire in the body
• Mount the head and adjust it's angle to look right.

Simple right?

I have to laugh...a smart person would use a plastic hemostat or similar soft, locking grabbing tool to hold the head and then drill into it. That's what smart person would do. If you don't do that or use something like...your thumb and fore finger to hold the head; you run the risk of applying too much pressure and driving the needle-sharp drill into your thumb so deep you hear and feel it grind against the bone.

"Once bitten, twice shy", right?

"xafs;ne;o;syf!! that hurt. I will have be more careful next time."

Oops...ADD time

"Curious...my thumb hurts when I hold this para head between my thumb and fore finger and use the other to try to drill it out. I wonder why that is?

Well at least the second time it was a shallow poke...I could see the bit just under the skin and have a 1/2" line on my thumb where the drill went in. I should get the British Empire award for my detached "Oh damn..." while Larry struggled to keep his seat despite his laughter. He violated protocol and began laughing immediately without asking if it was OK.

I did what any gamer would do in that situation...tried it a third time.

This time I had success...when the drill slipped it missed me completely!

I learned my lesson. The problem was obviously the head I was working on...so I pounded it flat with a hammer and felt better.

It was after this that I decided it was easier to sculpt the first-aid pouches on the army helmets...it was an easy choice...no needle sharp tools were involved.

Tim, them call him...

Entry for January 01, 2007

Happy New Year!

Ok, I hate new years day...unless they have a good marathon on A&E or the Hitler channel...no luck this year...maybe I should take up drinking?